Refrigerators and freezers (designed exclusively for freezing, and not having a moderate cooling mode), technologically cannot run continuously.
If your freezer is running continuously, the engine overheats because it does not have the means to cool. The situation is aggravated by the fact that the electric motor is housed in a hermetically sealed case, in which there is not even an elementary heat sink. And the compressor itself in this mode wears out much faster. If the cause of the cycle failure is not eliminated, the main refrigeration unit will fail. Repair is comparable to the cost of the entire unit, especially if it is used.
Chest freezers have such a function to quickly set the lowest possible temperature. With such a program, the motor can be turned off only due to overheating (the safety thermostat will work).
The refrigerator is loaded to capacity. The products placed in the chamber must first be frozen through. Of course, the control unit will try to bring the internal temperature to the set value as quickly as possible. At this time, the compressor can run continuously for a long time.
A similar situation: a lot of warm food with a high heat capacity was placed in the chest freezer. For example, water in plastic bottles, or large pieces of raw meat. As long as this mass reaches the required temperature, the engine cycle will be longer.
The freezer is by the window (or outside), and direct sunlight falls on it. This arrangement is especially painful for the trade (display) chests with a glass lid.
The freezer door is not closed or does not fit tightly along the contour. This is a common occurrence in stores, especially if the transparent display glass is moved to the side. Frosty air instantly evaporates through the gap.
The magnetic door seal is worn out. Over time, the rubber becomes stiff and deforms, forming subtle gaps. This problem only applies to swing doors.
The seal on the sliding display glasses has broken (a similar situation).
The condenser radiator is not working efficiently. It can clog up with dust to the state of a felt pillow, and then the heat exchange tends to zero.
There is no air convection around the radiator: foreign objects (boxes, curtains, etc.) interfere with free movement or the chest freezer is too close to the wall.
The surface of the evaporator inside the chamber is frostbitten. If there is a layer of snow or porous ice there, the generated cold stays in the pipe system without getting inside. The temperature sensor "does not see" the decrease in the degree, and does not give a command to interrupt the operation.
If the freezer does not freeze, with continuous operation of the compressor, go through this list. All causes are eliminated without calling the wizard, since they are not malfunctions.
The proposed repair options require special qualifications of a technician. It is not recommended to repair the freezer yourself. If you need help with home freezer repair, call us right now!