If you find increased ice formation in the freezer, first of all, check if the freezer closes tightly. Perhaps you just stuffed it so hard that the door does not fit properly and warm air enters the chamber. Everything is good? Then the next step is to check the settings.
Super freeze mode is on. In some models of refrigerators, it does not turn off automatically - you need to turn it off manually.
The temperature is very low. This could have happened by accident - the thermostat was touched or the family "helped". Or you feared that the kitchen was too hot and decided to play it safe this way. Even if the room is hot, there is no need to choose a colder mode: a working refrigerator always maintains the set temperature, regardless of the ambient temperature!
The modes are also in order, but is there snow and ice in the freezer? In this case, unfortunately, we have to talk about a malfunction.
1. In a no frost refrigerator, ice and snow accumulate at the bottom of the freezer. Perhaps there is water under the boxes.
2. The back wall of the freezer compartment is covered with a thick layer of ice and snow, while the temperature inside the freezer compartment is higher than the set one, and the engine of the unit runs almost without switching off. The more snow build-up, the higher the temperature, and the less often the compressor is turned off.
If the refrigerator of the model is full of no frost, then the refrigerator will also be poorly cooled. In a no frost refrigerator with a "crying" evaporator, the increased temperature will only be in the freezer. In addition, the alarm indicator on the control panel of the refrigerator may be lit or flashing, and models of refrigerators with electronic control may beep and display an error message on the screen.
3. The refrigerator is rarely turned off. The walls of the freezer are evenly covered with snow and ice. If the temperature in the chambers is controlled independently in the refrigerator, only the freezer compartment will be defrosted (for example, in a two-compressor unit). If the design of the refrigerator involves one thermostat located in the evaporator, then the refrigerator compartment will also freeze - you will see ice on the back wall.
4. Snow and ice is uneven, large "growths" are located closer to the freezer door. The temperature in the freezer is too high. The alarm indicator on the unit control panel is lit or flashing. Electronic models of refrigerators can squeak and report the problem with an error on the screen.
5. Heavy, uneven frost is visible in the area of ??the freezer evaporator. The refrigerator motor does not turn off. The temperature in the freezer is higher than the set value. An alarm indicator on the refrigerator control panel may be lit or flashing. Electronic models may beep. After the refrigerator is completely defrosted, the freezer or refrigerator generally stops working at all.
1. Freezer compartment drain plugged. Normally, the freezer is "cleared" of ice at least once a day: the defrost heating element is turned on, the ice turns into water and flows down the drainage channel. If the drain hole is clogged, the water has nowhere to "go", it accumulates under the boxes and freezes with a thick layer of ice. It is necessary to clean the drainage hole: for example, rinse it with warm water from a syringe. However, not all refrigerator models have easy access to the drain - you may need to unscrew the back of the freezer. If you are not sure that you know how to do this, it is better to seek help from a specialist.
2. The defrost system, which is responsible for "clearing" the freezer of ice, has failed. A breakdown of the defrost timer, heating element of the evaporator, defroster, fuse or other unit of the "cleaning" system does not allow the refrigerator to start a defrost cycle, and the evaporator is "overgrown" with a fur coat. As a result, the cooling capacity of the unit decreases, the temperature in the freezer compartment gradually rises. The motor-compressor tries to compensate for the lack of cooling capacity by continuous operation and is rarely switched off. In models, full No Frost freezes the cold air supply channel to the refrigerator compartment, and it stops cooling. It is required to diagnose the defrost system, identify the failed unit and replace it.
3. Most likely, the thermal sensor is out of order. As a result, the control module of the refrigerator receives incorrect information about the temperature in the freezer and, based on this data, "instructs" the motor to freeze more than necessary.
4. Most likely, the rubber door seal is worn out or torn. Because of this, the tightness of the freezer is broken. Warm air enters the freezer and you can see ice closer to the door.
5. In rare cases, Freon may leak in the evaporator of the freezer. As a result, the refrigeration capacity of the unit drops, the compressor of the refrigerator initially works without shutting down, and freezes a large layer of ice at the leak point on the evaporator and in the freezer. After the freon all the freon evaporates from the system, the freezer compartment or both chambers will stop working. Repair or replacement of the evaporator and recharge of the system with refrigerant is required. If you need help with refrigerator repair, call us right now!